Don't miss the next drop
In the early 1970s, a seismic shift occurred in the world of watch design. The old barriers between the rugged tool watch and the precious dress watch began to crumble, giving rise to an entirely new category: the luxury steel sport watch. While a few names have come to dominate that story, Baume & Mercier was right there at the vanguard. Launched in 1973, just one year after the Royal Oak, the Riviera was their brilliant and distinctive entry into this brave new world.
The Riviera captured the zeitgeist of the era perfectly. It was a watch designed for a new, more dynamic lifestyle, a single timepiece that could move effortlessly from the boardroom to the yacht club. Its signature was its unique dodecagonal (12-sided) bezel, a bold and architectural choice that set it apart from its octagonal and porthole-shaped contemporaries. Paired with a seamlessly integrated bracelet, the Riviera had a fluid, sophisticated, and undeniably sporty character that made it an instant success.
This particular example, a Reference 5130.038, is a fantastic and beautifully preserved specimen from the design’s heyday in the 1980s or 90s. This was the era of unapologetic confidence, and nothing captured that spirit better than the two-tone watch. This Riviera is a perfect expression of that aesthetic, combining cool, brushed stainless steel with the warm, luxurious glow of yellow gold on the bezel and bracelet. The crisp white dial is a picture of refined legibility, with classic printed Roman numerals, slim baton hands, and a beautifully symmetrical date window at 6 o’clock.
